Swiss Chocolate And Cheese: A Tasty Adventure – Delicious Swiss dishes can be found in every corner of the country, but there is a particularly tasty concentration of gastronomic delights in the southwest region of the Lake Geneva Matterhorn or LGMR. Savor the flavors, heady aromas and distinct flavors of the region by following the A1, A9 and 9 motorways from Geneva. The route skirts the northern shore of the lake through Lausanne, curving southeast to Martigny and then further east to the Rhône Valley before heading south to the Matterhorn area. Along the way, you’ll find everything from budget three-star Michelin restaurants to more affordable cafes, brasseries and après-ski accommodation. Favorite local food includes local lake fish; wines like Chasselas (called Fendant in Valais), Gamay and Pinot Noir; and the Valais favorite raclette – derived from the French verb meaning “to scrape” – created by shaving a heated wheel of cow’s milk cheese and served with potatoes, pickled onions, cucumbers, a bit of dried ham and a pinch of fresh pepper .
Travel tip: A top spot for raclette is Chateau de Villa de Sierre, a 16th-century castle with alfresco dining and a large wine collection. The castle is about a ten-minute walk, slightly uphill, from the train station.
Swiss Chocolate And Cheese: A Tasty Adventure
St. Moritz is the birthplace of winter sports. Even if you don’t participate, you can toast here in an iconic skeleton bar.
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In the 1860s, hotelier Johannes Badrutt built a special sleigh run to attract British tourists during the winter months. The 200-meter ride from his Hotel Kulm to the lake below was a success (the roads are now home to Jimmy Choo, Valentino and other stores). Eventually the luge (a sled that you ride on your back), the skeleton (a sled that you ride on your stomach) and the bobsled were born.
“Sledding used to be something crazy English people did,” explains a bartender at the Kulm Hotel’s Sunny Bar. “Now locals do it all the time.”
The bar is ground zero for luge or skeleton fans. (And seriously, who isn’t?) Facing a large window overlooking Lake St. Moritz below, the oldest bar in the Alps pays homage to the skeletal glories of past and present. Lining the walls, photos tell stories of the exclusive St. Moritz Tobogganing Club, founded here in 1887. The photos show the stoic faces of triumphantly bearded riders in kilts, others in “Margaret Thatcher drag” or a smile. guy in a hospital bed lifting a freshly broken arm. It’s that kind of club.
Soon after the original track was made came the Cresta Run – a famous skeleton/bobsled track from the 1928 and 1948 Winter Olympics, both held here. It’s still happening.
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Travel tip: For “reasons that are unclear,” only men can use the Cresta Run, with classes offered for beginners. Anyone can take the one-minute “bob taxi” that glides over the ice in winter.
When the world says “Swiss cheese,” it’s usually the leaky Emmentaler they’re talking about. But there are 450 other types of “Swiss cheese” and only a third of the national production of 180 thousand tons per year leaves the country. This provides wonderful inspiration for a trip: crossing the country and tasting as much as possible.
Let’s start with the most famous. Made into giant oblong pieces, Emmentaler is named after a region east of Bern, a hilly cow region with restaurants serving ämmitaler ruschtig, the region’s fine food.
Its famous holes are, as Diccon Bewes writes in Swiss Watching, “where tradition and technology truly come together.” It turns out that the holes, or “eyes,” are made by trapping carbon dioxide during production. Varying temperatures lead to varying sizes.
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Of the other Swiss cheeses, be sure to look out for icons like the spicy and smelly Appenzeller, rich in fat; the Tête de Moine (or monk’s head), born from a monastery in the Jura Mountains in the 12th century; creamy Tilsit from the Bodensee region; or the tough, Parmesan-like Sbrinz de Brienz, which wooed the Romans at that time.
Travel tip: If you go by car, watch the village farmers’ markets and especially the self-pay alpencheese stands on the roads for a quick, fresh sample.
Only Switzerland, with all its bell-ringing cows, would think of infusing milk into imported cocoa beans. That’s what happened in the 1800s, when many of chocolate’s early pioneers – some with the familiar monikers of Cailler, Tobler and Nestlé – turned a fashionable bean into irresistible portable bars, the cocoa blended with hazelnuts and softened with milk. Not only did they make Swiss chocolate (schoggi in Swiss German) a household name around the world, they also created the snack of dreams.
In Switzerland, you must eat chocolate. Locals eat more than 23 pounds per person per year (that’s about one bar per day). And you find it everywhere, in large chocolate factories, in street chocolate shops and in vending machines. It’s world class, of course, and they say eating it could help you win the Nobel Prize.
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An extremely popular place – reached by the Swiss Chocolate Train from Montreux – is the Cailler Chocolate Factory, which offers information about how François-Louis Cailler created the world’s first chocolate bars in 1819.
Travel tip: Other chocolate highlights include the two-day chocolate festival in Versoix, just outside Geneva, in March, and Lugano’s Alprose Chocolate Museum.
Fondue means “melt” in French, but the art of dipping loaves of bread into a bubbling pot of gooey cheese is such an ingrained Swiss institution that fondue was featured in the Swiss installation at the 1964 World’s Fair.
Locals tend to order fondue only in winter. But the right to fondue is practically mandatory by law. Recently, some Zurich boutiques protested the smell of cheese from a neighboring restaurant’s fondue. A three-year fight ended up in court, where the smell was determined to be “normal,” thus deciding Switzerland’s right to fondue, anytime, anywhere.
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As the manager of Zunfthaus zur Zimmerleuten told the Guardian: “It’s definitely a good win for Swiss cheese.”
Travel tip: Another top fondue destination is Gruyères, about 90 minutes northeast of Geneva, where Chalet de Gruyères highlights the region’s alpine glory with its motié-motié cheese (part Gruyère, part Vacherin).
In the Engadine Valley, on the outskirts of St. Moritz, you may notice many bucolic cottages boasting a curious item on the porch: thick slabs of raw meat hung to air-dry for weeks and weeks. The valley is the humble origin of the beloved bündnerfleisch, a tasty, tender and paper-thin dried meat. You find it in salads, in dumplings, served with bread and wine or simply eaten alone.
Common throughout the country, this smoked jerky is especially suited here in Graubünden in southeastern Switzerland. In the fashionable ski center of St. Moritz, it is served in most restaurants or in stylish delicatessens like Hatecke, where you can buy in bulk or have them cut thin slices of beef or venison ham on their vintage slicer.
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In fact, Bündnerfleisch caused a political sensation in 2010, when a Swiss politician became hysterical when trying to say the name. (It’s kind of a funny name.)
Travel tip: If you don’t like meat, at least try the bündner nusstorte, a local nutty treat served in St. Louis delicatessens.
A French doctor named Pierre Ordinaire, a fugitive from the French Revolution, made an extraordinary discovery in western Switzerland in 1792. Seeking a cure for a number of illnesses, Ordinaire created a 136-proof elixir named after wormwood, the bitter herb that he found it outside the village of Couvet.
Notoriously bohemian types like Vincent Van Gogh turned to the “green fairy” for its hallucinogenic effects, and absinthe was eventually banned (it was illegal in Switzerland from 1910 to 2005). Part of the problem, originally, was that low-quality varieties had many negative side effects. As a Swiss absinthe smuggler once told the New York Times, “It’s like the difference between eau de toilette and a fine perfume.”
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Absinthe is back and perfectly legal, and you can sample the good stuff at 16 distilleries along the so-called Absinthe Trail in Val-de-Travers, north of Lake Geneva (and soon in France, where there are three additional distilleries). . An interactive online map lists places to see, taste and eat throughout the area.
Travel tip: Top stops on the trail include the village of Môtiers, home of Blackmint Kübler (an 1860s distiller who helped lobby to lift the ban) and the excellent Maison de L’Absinthe (a newly opened museum/cafe in 2014) .
The joy of a hike begins with choosing trail snacks, which can be made perfectly at Swiss farmers’ markets across the country. It’s here that you can sample some of the 450 types of fresh Swiss cheese from the mountains, along with cervelat and other sausages and, most importantly, the underrated breads.
The Swiss love bread. According to the online magazine Newly Swissed, locals see Switzerland much more as the land of bread than of cheese or chocolate. There are more than 200 types, including varieties from each of the 22 Swiss cantons.
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On Sundays, try braided zopf, a soft bread served with jam. A quick and popular boost for hikers is a piece of bündner birnenbrot, a pastry-style bread packed with what is essentially a mixture of raisins, nuts and various dried fruits.
Where to start shopping? Everywhere, like Brig,
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