A Taste Of Lebanon: Beirut Food Adventure

By | October 18, 2025

A Taste Of Lebanon: Beirut Food Adventure – From the balmy Mediterranean Sea to the snow-capped mountains of Lebanon, the magnificent Roman ruins at Baalbek to the spectacular stone city of Petra, and the scorching heat of the Jordanian desert to that of the political climate in Jerusalem – figuratively speaking – the natural And the cultural landscape in the Levant is as intriguing as it is diverse. What is now Syria, Lebanon, Jordan, Israel and Palestine, the Levant is probably among the most contested pieces of land anywhere on the planet, thanks to its convoluted history – a result of the mixing of religious conservatism, tribalism, colonialism, right-wing nationalism and today’s political agendas. However, as contentious as the relations between the nations can be, when you peel away the outer layers of communal identity that often come to the forefront of any political issues, arguments and strife in this part of the world, you will understand that the nations have many more things in common. And as neighbors who live in the same corner of the Middle East, food is one of the things that the Levantines share.

My first experience with traditional Levantine dishes was at a Lebanese bistro in Hong Kong about four years ago, and then at another Lebanese restaurant in Melbourne in October 2017. Despite Lebanon’s small size, its food is good for traveling, thanks to The Lebanese diaspora. in all corners of the world – partly the result of mass migration after the long civil war that engulfed their homeland from 1975 to 1990. At the end of March 2019, I finally got the opportunity to visit the Middle East, and despite the hassle I had to Acting as an Indonesian to secure a visa, I chose Lebanon as my first destination in the region. Going to Oman, Qatar, Jordan or Iran would be much easier for me because I don’t need to apply for a visa in advance to visit these countries.

A Taste Of Lebanon: Beirut Food Adventure

After checking into our hotel in Beirut’s Sodeco neighborhood, the first thing Jacob and I did was find a place to eat lunch. Located just half a kilometer away from where we stayed, Al Falamanki – a beautiful restaurant with a cozy village feel – was our choice. After the long flights from Jakarta (including a stopover in Doha), we ordered quite a lot of dishes that could probably feed 3-4 people. But this is just our excuse. We have eggplant with pomegranate molasses;

A Travel Guide To Lebanon

(a Levantine salad made of finely chopped parsley, tomatoes, mint, onion and bulgur then seasoned with olive oil, lemon juice, salt and pepper);

(made of bulgur, minced onions, ground meat and spices) in yogurt with coriander, garlic and pine nuts; As well as some other dishes I can’t remember.

On another day in the Lebanese capital, we met Mahmoud, Jacob’s friend from his days in Salamanca, Spain. It was he who helped me with the letter of invitation, one of many documents that I had to submit to the Lebanese Embassy in Jakarta to get a visa. Mahmoud and his Argentinian wife Vani met us for dinner in Hamrah, a district in West Beirut filled with restaurants, cafes, shops and hotels. First, they took us to T-Marbouta, a trendy place that was unfortunately packed to the brim when we were there. But the good thing about going out with locals is that they know their city well, so Jacob and I followed them to Mezian, another restaurant that was just down the street. They ordered all the different Lebanese delicacies, some new to us, others familiar but with a twist. Bridge’s hummus fell into the latter category, and Jacob and I agree that it was among the best dishes we tried in Lebanon. It was so smooth, creamy and well-balanced. Unfortunately, I didn’t take any photos of the food because I was distracted by our hosts’ sweetness and playfulness towards each other, which was very fun and heartwarming to watch. The next day, Jacob and I were on our own exploring Beirut, and we decided to try our luck with getting a table at T-Marbouta, which we did. At that moment, it became more and more clear to me how the Lebanese cuisine emphasizes the freshness of vegetables and herbs, with the kick of tanginess in the overall flavor of a dish that varies from one restaurant to another.

To delve deeper into the culinary scene of the Lebanese capital, we joined a full-day walking tour focusing on Beirut’s food heritage. Founded by Bethany Kehdy, a cookbook author and expert on Lebanese cuisine, the tour began in front of a breakfast joint called Barbar in a part of Hamra. The neighborhood was the stronghold of the Amal movement, the largest Shia political party in Lebanon, because of the abundance of the party’s flags strung over the buildings and over the streets. James and I were the first to arrive, followed by a Brit, an Aussie, and Bethany herself.

The Food Of Lebanon What They Eat And When

“This isn’t our first stop on this food tour,” Bethany told us, much to my disappointment, because while I was waiting for them to arrive, I was salivating over all the different types of bread that were made at Barbar. We soon started walking to the east in a quiet quarter called Zakak al-Blat. Our first destination? A small bakery called Ichkanian specializing in Armenian

In the Lebanese dialect of Arabic. Bethany ordered us the standard meat and vegetable lambjun and also the meat and pomegranate version, and the baker, in a quick and precise movement, prepared our flat bread in no time. A staff member then folded them in half, rolled them and wrapped each of them in a paper, and we were good to go. Outside the bakery, I took a bite of my first lahmadjoon, and I was blown away. Although the normal one was really good, for me the star was the other one with pomegranate molasses which gave the traditional snack a satisfyingly sweet and slightly tangy flavor.

As we continued walking, Bethany explained the history of some abandoned buildings we saw along the way. During the Lebanese civil war, the belligerents fought over Beirut’s skyscrapers, as taking control of them was seen as giving them an upper hand over the others. She also recalled the days when she and her family had to move to a village high on the slopes of Mount Lebanon to escape the brutality of the war.

It was mostly cloudy throughout the day, and barely a few blocks away from Iconic Bakery, what started as a drizzle turned into A forest rain. Although we were supposed to do the tour on foot, Bethany decided to hail an Uber to get us to our next destination so that we wouldn’t have to spend the rest of the day soaking in wet clothes. Soon we arrived at a row

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Joints on Damascus Street. Bethany went to one of them and bought some falafels, but then she took us to the nearby falafel Abulzis to have the ones she bought earlier and see how they compared to what Abulzis makes. Falafel is usually made from chickpeas, fava beans, or both, and is usually served in pita bread. But what makes abolzes special is that they are mostly made from chickpeas – some places use more fava beans because they are cheaper. After finishing mine I looked out and just across the street was an abandoned building riddled with bullet and shrapnel holes, another reminder of the The devastation that the 15-year civil war brought upon the city and its people.

We then moved to another location a few minutes walk southeast of the falafel joint and ended up at a dessert place in Sodeko, not too far from our hotel. When we entered the place, we received piles after piles of baklava, in various sizes and shapes. It reminded me very much of my trip to Istanbul back in 2013 when I tried these very sweet pastries for the first time. Bethany ordered some for takeout, then led us across the street to Sodeco Square, a development project that transformed an abandoned patch along the former Green Line (a no-man’s land that separated Beirut’s east and west during the civil war) In an upscale commercial business. and residential complex. We enjoyed the sweet (but not too much) baklava with Lebanese-style cardamom coffee.

The sun came out again during the time we were walking in the predominantly Christian district, Akhrapia. It was here that Bethany led us to a small, non-descript joint that was one of the most celebrated ice cream bars in Beirut. Widely known as Hannah Mitri, and named after the father of the current owner who opened the business in 1949, the place never closed its doors, even during the Civil War. Each of us was handed a pile of ice creams and sorbets with different colors, textures and flavors, from pistachio and caramelized almond to rose water, apricot,

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