Trekking Through Uncharted Terrains – E uropean thru-hiking may not be as prestigious or well-known as it is in the United States, but this multicultural continent boasts stunning landscapes and exciting hikes. With 47 countries to explore, the possibilities are endless for traveling through breathtaking mountain ranges, vast forests, hidden lakes and stunning coastlines. The contrasts and diversity that Europe offers are overwhelming, and I’m determined to uncover as much of them as I can on my own hike.
My journey began by exploring long-distance trails, but among the thousands in Europe, I couldn’t find one that really aligned with my vision of a long and full three months of walking before my work responsibilities resumed. So I decided to make my own way.
Trekking Through Uncharted Terrains
I have logged many miles as a solo traveler. When I was 18, I embarked on a journey to a remote South Pacific island to work on a farm. My adventure continued with some work and travel in the stunning landscapes of New Zealand and Southeast Asia, followed by countless camping trips across Europe. But the whole solo travel bug started with my first trip to the bustling streets of New York City—a trip that sparked a long-lasting love for the absolute freedom of solo exploration.
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Growing up in the mountains, I have gone on countless day hikes, sometimes with friends and family, and sometimes by myself. But one thing I’ve never quite settled on is going on long walks. Such an endeavor has been a dream of mine for years, and I’ve devoured practically every thru-hiking documentary out there. All the long distance hiking stories inspired me a lot. I was fascinated by the incredible capabilities of our bodies and how humans can walk across countries. So, I decided to try this challenge.
Nevertheless, my love of the ocean inspired me to explore coastal areas, and fortunately, Europe has many coastal areas that can be hiked up. I had never hiked along a beach before, and I had no idea what it would be like to live in this environment long-term.
Armed only with my backpack and adventurous spirit, I booked a train to the French Basque Country and set off without a predetermined destination. Little did I know that this would take me on a remarkable journey of 2,061 kilometers in 77 days. 25 pounds of oats, 173 protein bars, and two pairs of shoes later, I arrived in Faro, Portugal.
For the next 77 days, I traversed an eclectic mix of well-marked hiking trails and my own custom routes. My journey started near Bayonne in France and in the first few days I traveled across the Spanish border to San Sebastián. From there, I traversed a mix of the Camino del Norte, the E9 route and various GR routes.
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A happy encounter with another solo hiker, like me, carrying a tent, led us to hike together for about 10 days. I ended up covering about 400km of the Camino thanks to the comfort of a small family of trails and the simplicity of navigation.
I continued my journey until I reached Santiago de Compostela, a famous pilgrimage destination, after 29 days of hiking, covering around 900 km, passing major cities in Spain such as Bilbao and Gijon. From there things got a little more complicated.
The next part of my journey required more planning and sailing. I followed small, local hiking trails towards Porto, hiked 300km through the Portuguese countryside, and spent two days around Lisbon.
Heading further south, I embarked on a scenic and very remote 70km coastal drive which, unbeknownst to me, turned into an impromptu military obstacle course during an epic shooting practice. Talk about timing! It wasn’t exactly the highlight of my trip, but hey, I can now brag about surviving a beach boot camp – definitely a story to spice up any gathering!
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Eager for a break from relying on AllTrails and other hiking apps for navigation, I headed south along the charming fishing route to Lagos in southern Portugal. The scenic beaches and rugged cliffs made this section one of my favorite parts of my thru-hike. From there, I only had to walk about 100 kilometers east of Lagos along the Algarve coast before finishing my hike in Faro.
Although I hadn’t extensively researched the trails through France, Spain and Portugal before embarking on this adventure, I was reassured that the areas were generally safe and that water was generally not something to worry about, so minimal pre-planning was required. . Moreover, navigating was generally fairly easy as I could always keep the ocean to my right, making sure I was heading in the right direction.
At times I faced uncertainty and questioned my decisions. Especially since there were no other hikers around me to find the best together. However, the beauty of not planning too much and hiking solo was the flexibility to tailor the trail to my preferences and the specific situations I encountered. I kicked those zero days and walked a leisurely 60km.
Although each day brought its own unique experiences, I gradually developed a daily routine during my solo hiking adventure. I usually woke up at 5am, threw my things in my bag and whenever possible, enjoyed my morning oats on the beach. Sometimes, I go for a refreshing morning swim or sit outside my tent, soaking in the soothing sounds of the ocean.
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I prefer to cover most of my hiking distance in the morning, especially since temperatures often soar to 100°F during the day at the end of my hike. I usually had a rough plan for each day’s hike, which gave me a sense of security when navigating unmarked trails alone. The evening before, I diligently research potential water sources and suitable campsites.
In Portugal, Spain and France, the legality of wild camping was in rather murky territory. As a result, I proceeded with caution, choosing remote locations that would not disturb anyone and, of course, avoiding protected areas. However, when I couldn’t find a suitable place to pitch my tent, I went in search of farms, or when near villages, knocked on local people’s doors to ask permission to set up camp – an incredibly enriching experience.
After a month of sleeping under the open sky, my tent became a portable haven. Its thin walls provided a comforting sanctuary wherever I placed it. At night, tucked into my sleeping bag, I drifted off to the soothing gentleness of the ocean waves, which felt like a home away from home.
Especially in the Portuguese countryside, it was common for me to meet fellow hikers or other tourists. As a result, the locals took keen interest in my activities as I walked through their villages. Once someone from the village rode a bike and passed me for about 10 km. He had never seen a tourist in his village before and appeared eager to learn all about my journey.
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Salad from José’s farm: It was really heartwarming how many farmers insisted on getting some of their vegetables and fruits before I continued hiking.
The people in those areas were awesome – so friendly and welcoming. They let me camp in their fields or garden, and they often invited me to dinner. Although they probably didn’t realize it, they were like trail angels, and I was lucky enough to experience this sweet European trail magic every day.
When planning a thru-hike like this, it’s essential to recognize that it doesn’t always involve traversing small dirt roads through stunning landscapes. You may find yourself walking for hours along the hard shoulder of a three-lane highway or through industrial areas. Although navigation is generally easy, navigation difficulties do occur, leading you to walk for hours longer than expected under the scorching heat.
Since you are not following a well-known trail, and information from fellow hikers or trekking guides may not always be reliable, you may face challenges in planning your retracement or staging. Rain-soaked gear, mosquitoes and scorching temperatures tested my resilience, but I pressed on, relishing the freedom and flexibility of my unplanned adventure. Nevertheless, these difficulties come with a sense of liberation and simplicity. You are freed from following the paths and plans laid out by others that do not match your preferences.
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As a young woman, I’m often asked if I’m afraid to walk across countries alone. Honestly, I can’t deny that it can be a little scary. Walking in the dark, encountering wild dogs, traversing small towns and crossing rivers alone have all given me terrifying moments. However, I have learned to deal with these fears and accept them. I’ve come to realize that it’s okay to feel scared sometimes, and I’m starting to see it as a temporary feeling. In a strange way, these experiences actually made me more confident in the end.
At the end,
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